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How to knit a tank top with an openwork stripe

Today we will learn how to knit a tank top with an openwork stripe pattern. This technique not only creates a lovely arabesque effect all over the top, it is also ideal when combined with slightly thicker yarns, which help the design stand out. For this reason we chose to make the tank top with Stromboli, a pure cotton tape yarn that is extra large and nicely substantial – a perfect match for this stitch.

Choose your favourite Stromboli colour on our shop and cast on. You will enjoy wearing this tank top on countless occasions.

Tutorial: how to knit a tank top with an openwork stripe

MATERIALS
Stromboli yarn col. Tangerine 700 g / 24.7 oz (for size M)
Knitting needles n° 9 EU / 13 US
Crochet hook n° 8 EU / L-11 US
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle

Stromboli - 200 g
Havana
1 pc. € 10,95
€ 14,60
5 pcs. € 52,01
€ 69,34
Stromboli - 200 g
Baby
1 pc. € 10,95
€ 14,60
5 pcs. € 52,01
€ 69,34
Stromboli - 200 g
Sky
1 pc. € 10,95
€ 14,60
5 pcs. € 52,01
€ 69,34
Stromboli - 200 g
Flag
1 pc. € 10,95
€ 14,60
5 pcs. € 52,01
€ 69,34

GAUGE - HORIZONTAL RIB STITCH
10 cm x 10 cm / 4" x 4"
10 stitches and 13 rows

KNITTING STITCHES USED
Knit
Purl
Selvedge stitch:
on the right side slip the stitch knitwise with yarn held to the back; on the wrong side work the stitch purl.
1/1 rib:
work by alternating 1 knit stitch and 1 purl stitch on both right and wrong sides of the work.
Horizontal rib stitch:
(worked over an odd number of stitches)
row 1: work the first stitch knit, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the end of the row
rows 2 and 3: work knit
rows 4 and 5: work purl
rows 6 and 7: work knit
row 8: work purl.
Repeat rows 1 to 8.
Single decrease:
slip 1 stitch knitwise onto the right needle, knit the next stitch on the left needle and with the tip of the left needle pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch, i.e. the unworked stitch.

CROCHET STITCH USED
Crab stitch:
work reverse single crochet from left to right.

SIZES
Instructions are given for size S (M, L)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS SIZE S (M, L)
Bust circumference 92 (100, 108) cm / 36.2" (39.4", 42.5")
Total length 50 (52, 54) cm / 19.7" (20.5", 21.2")
Length from underarm 31 (32, 32) cm / 12.2" (12.6", 12.6")
Neck opening 20 (22, 24) cm / 8" (8.7", 9.4")

DIFFICULTY
Intermediate

INSTRUCTIONS

The top is worked flat, first in one piece with back and front worked at the same time, then in two separate parts. The neckband is worked with the crochet hook after seaming.


How to work back and front

With needles size 9 EU / 13 US cast on 96 (104, 110) stitches.

Row 1: 1 selvedge stitch, repeat (1 knit stitch, 1 purl stitch) to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
rows 2 to 10: repeat row 1. The 1/1 rib lower border, measuring 8 cm / 3.1", is complete.
row 11: 1 selvedge stitch, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
rows 12 and 13: 1 selvedge stitch, work knit to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
rows 14 and 15: 1 selvedge stitch, work purl to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
rows 16 and 17: 1 selvedge stitch, work knit to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
row 18: 1 selvedge stitch, work purl to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch.

Rows 11 to 18 establish the horizontal rib stitch with selvedge stitch at the beginning and end of each row; repeat them another 2 (3, 3) times, then, ONLY for size S, work rows 11 to 16 once more: you will have worked row 40 (42, 42), measuring 31 (32, 32) cm / 12.2" (12.6", 12.6"). Now divide the work in half to separate back and front.


Row 41 (43, 43): work 1 selvedge stitch, continue in horizontal rib stitch over the next 46 (50, 54) stitches, then work 1 selvedge stitch, reaching the centre of the stitches on the needle, corresponding to the back. From now on continue only over these back stitches and place the remaining stitches, corresponding to the front, on a stitch holder
row 42 (44, 44): work 1 selvedge stitch, continue in horizontal rib stitch to the last stitch, work 1 selvedge stitch.

Continue in horizontal rib stitch with selvedge stitch at the beginning and end of each row for another 20 (22, 24) rows, up to row 62 (66, 68). 

Row 63 (67, 69): work 1 selvedge stitch and 13 (14, 15) purl stitches (purl, knit), bind off the next 20 (22, 24) stitches for the neckline, work 13 (14, 15) purl stitches (purl, knit) and 1 selvedge stitch
row 64 (68, 70): over the 14 (15, 16) stitches of the second side, work 1 selvedge stitch and 13 (14, 15) knit stitches (knit, purl). Now, ONLY for size S, work 1 more right‑side row in knit, remembering to work 1 selvedge stitch at the end of the row. Bind off.

Resume working over the stitches of the first back side and work as for the second side.


Now resume working over the front stitches and, beginning with a right‑side row, work in horizontal rib stitch with selvedge stitch at the beginning and end of each row for 14 rows, up to row 54 (56, 56). The instructions now continue and end separately for the 3 sizes.

SIZE S
Row 55: work 1 selvedge stitch and 18 purl stitches, bind off the next 10 stitches for the neckline, work 18 purl stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 56: over the 19 stitches of the second side, work 1 selvedge stitch and 18 knit stitches. From now on continue only over this second side, leaving the stitches of the first side on a stitch holder
row 57: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 16 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 58: work 1 selvedge stitch and 17 purl stitches
row 59: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 1 knit stitch, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the last stitch, work 1 selvedge stitch
row 60: work 1 selvedge stitch and 16 knit stitches
row 61: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 14 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 62: work 1 selvedge stitch and 15 purl stitches
row 63: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 13 purl stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 64: work 1 selvedge stitch and 14 knit stitches
row 65: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 12 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch. Bind off.

Resume working over the stitches of the first side and work as for the second side, mirrored.


SIZE M
Row 57: work 1 selvedge stitch and 19 knit stitches, bind off the next 12 stitches for the neckline, work 19 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 58: over the 20 stitches of the second side, work 1 selvedge stitch and 19 purl stitches. From now on continue only over this second side, leaving the stitches of the first side on a stitch holder
row 59: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 1 knit stitch, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the last stitch, work 1 selvedge stitch
row 60: work 1 selvedge stitch and 18 knit stitches
row 61: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 16 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 62: work 1 selvedge stitch and 17 purl stitches
row 63: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 15 purl stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 64: work 1 selvedge stitch and 16 knit stitches
row 65: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 14 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 66: work 1 selvedge stitch and 15 purl stitches
row 67: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 13 purl stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 68: work 1 selvedge stitch and 14 knit stitches. Bind off. 

Resume working over the stitches of the first side and work as for the second side, mirrored.

SIZE L
Row 57: work 1 selvedge stitch and 21 knit stitches, bind off the next 12 stitches for the neckline, work 21 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 58: over the 22 stitches of the second side, work 1 selvedge stitch and 21 purl stitches. From now on continue only over this second side, leaving the stitches of the first side on a stitch holder
row 59: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 1 knit stitch, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
row 60: work 1 selvedge stitch and 20 knit stitches
row 61: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 18 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 62: work 1 selvedge stitch and 19 purl stitches
row 63: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 17 purl stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 64: work 1 selvedge stitch and 18 knit stitches
row 65: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 16 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 66: work 1 selvedge stitch and 17 purl stitches
row 67: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 1 knit stitch, repeat (1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together) to the last stitch, 1 selvedge stitch
row 68: work 1 selvedge stitch and 16 knit stitches
row 69: decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the first 2 stitches, work 14 knit stitches and 1 selvedge stitch
row 70: work 1 selvedge stitch and 15 purl stitches. Bind off.

Resume working over the stitches of the first side and work as for the second side, mirrored.


Finishing and neckband

Join all parts with mattress stitch for an invisible seam. Fold the work in half lengthwise and close the open side seam, sewing 31 (32, 32) cm / 12.2" (12.6", 12.6") up from the lower edge. Sew the shoulder seams. For the neckband, using crochet hook size 8 EU / L-11 US, work 1 round of crab stitch around the neckline.

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